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Cold Front
That particular Memorial Day weekend
was a memorable one. It had been a chilly
and damp spring, and we arrived at the hotel
in Wildwood Crest on Saturday afternoon
pallid and sun-starved.
It was a glorious day at last, a brilliant
sun sailing in a deep blue sky with the temperature
in the mid-seventies. A soft southerly
breeze caressed the island , and we hastily
unpacked, jumped into our bathing suits
and flip-flops, gathered up our stuff, and hit
the beach running.
There were several people already there
– nothing like the season, of course – and
we unfolded our beach chairs, generously
applied sunscreen, and stretched out to
enjoy the bountiful rays.
We hadn’t been there fifteen minutes
when – lo and behold — a monster fog
blew in from the ocean like something from
a science fiction movie and within moments
we couldn’t even see the hotel. We decided
to wait it out, thinking of the old seashore
saying that if you don’t like the weather, wait
ten minutes and it’ll change. So we waited
and waited, feeling stranded and disoriented
in the soupy mist. Nothing doing. The fog
lay like a dispiriting blanket over both the
island and our weekend optimism.
The temperature had fallen, too, and all
we had were the tee shirts we’d worn. After
a very long, cold half-hour, we packed it
in and reluctantly trudged back to the hotel
and warmth. In the room, we saw on
the Weather Channel that all the Jersey
Shore points were socked in by a stationary
cold front, and the chipper young
weather woman said that the fog would bewith us for the indeterminate future. Great.
Trapped in a hotel room, the sun-drenched
beach a rapidly fading memory, while the
fog enveloped all our happy plans like a
soggy gray dish towel.
After a lazy night of pizza and television,
we awoke to more of the same. The
Weather Channel’s prognosis hadn’t
changed, and, after moping until noon, we
decided to get out and meet the fog headon
with a run on the Boardwalk.
We drove slowly through the thick vapors,
and, wearing sweatshirts against the
cool air, set out from the southern end of
the boards. We couldn’t see more than
twenty feet and the fog beaded up on our
faces and bare legs before we’d gone a quarter
mile. By the time we’d reached the Ferris
wheel, now a vague, Tinker Toy outline, our
sweatshirts were covered with a wet film.
The only sound was the soft scuffling of our
feet. We were in our own moving pocket of
space and time, separate from the world as
we knew it. Occasionally, other forms –
runners, walkers, and even an occasional
brave bicyclist – loomed out of the fog and
floated past us, brief, fleeting ghosts. We both
agreed that this was indeed a cool run, and
settled in to enjoy it, our edginess and disappointment
forgotten for the duration of
our strange Boardwalk sojourn.
But all good things must end, and presently
we were back at the hotel, facing the
gloomy prospect of another foggy day. When
we passed the front desk, the woman there
asked if there was anything she could do
for us. I replied that she could bring back
the sun.
“Well,” she said, “I live over at Reeds
Beach, and it’s been sunny on the mainland
all weekend.”
And away we went, primed for some
rays. Reeds Beach has always been one of
our favorite spots, and we felt like
knuckleheads for not thinking of it.
As usual, I had to keep my eyes peeled
for the small sign on Route 47. The road
leading out to Reeds Beach is nothing unusual,
but after one last curve, suddenly
the wetlands are on the right, sweeping out
to the horizon, marsh grass bending gracefully
in the wind. The two modern houses
that stand at the entrance to North Beach
Avenue, the single road, are misleading in
their way; the unique, three-story affair to
their left is more indicative of the place:
jumbly, kind of patched-together, but actually
well-considered and friendly, the many
windows offering splendid views of both
the Delaware Bay and the meadows.
Reeds Beach, which is less than a mile
long, is a picturesque hodge-podge of shacks,
houses, and trailers, all set on a spit of land
that is only 25 or 30 yards wide at some
points. Some of the dwellings are well-kept
and suburban, but most are weathered and
well-used. It’s the kind of place that makes
you want to live there. At the north end is
Smokey’s marina on the right, and a jetty
on the left, thrusting out into the bay to
form a channel for the boat traffic. A sign at
Smokey’s entrance says, “Private Property
Patrons Only.” Reeds Beach is an accessible
step back in time.
We parked on the road by Smokey’s,
collected our beach gear, and made our way
half-way out the jetty, and then walked down
onto the pebbly beach and headed north.
In the far distance, the land curved out into
a graceful bow, sea gulls called, the sun rode
high and handsome, and there was peace in
the air.
We saw a likely spot, but before we
could get there and settle down, we were
distracted by two objects bobbing in the
bay. As we approached, we could see that
they were the heads of a white-haired man
and a large dog. They were heading briskly
for shore and got there just as we arrived.
The man was quite old, but was spry
and in good physical shape, his skin, albeit
crinkly and lined, ruddy from the swim. The
dog, a beautiful Irish setter, set about the
serious business of shaking the water from
its coat.
“Beautiful dog,” I said, “What’s his
name?”
“Andy,” the man said.
“Early in the year for a swim.”
“Yep,” he said. “But it’s something I’ve
been doing every Memorial Day for over
sixty years now. We’re a day early this year,
but I have to be at my great-granddaughter’s
tomorrow for a barbecue.”
“Wow, sixty years. Why is that?”
“It’s how I remember my buddy, Rocky
Hennessey. We landed together on Omaha
Beach on D-Day and Rocky didn’t make it
to shore, so I remember him with a swim
on Memorial Day every year ... you know,
the water and all that. Makes me feel better.
I think he’d appreciate it, too. He was a
good guy. Good soldier, too.”
“That’s nice,” Mimmy said.
“Thanks,” he said. “Enjoy your day.”
And he and Andy headed off the beach.
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